This yielded a 1/4 pound drop in pull weight to 2 1/4 pounds, with no creep or overtravel. One reason I didn't do this before, was that I could see I would have to cut away a lot of material before the trigger would be squared up. What AFMan said.Creep is actually the alot of sear engagement.The more surface the sear has to slide out from under the hammer hook,the more creep.Rough surfaces like a trigger track that doesn't let the trigger bow glide are sometimes included in the definition,but really aren't.They pretty much just screw up the pull weight with inconsistancy.I prefer .020 hooks and about 50% engagement,but you have to have the proper initial angle on the sear.Both my SAs had a negative sear cut,it tried to pick the hammer while releasing.It's not hard to do,but if you have any doubts,let someone else do it.Full auto will tighten up the sphinkter and is downright dangerous. The trigger has an enormous amount of creep. This trigger job video demonstrates the way we eliminated the trigger creep. I was ready to come in guns a blazing and help out but it was a false alarm LOL. Click on a term to search for related topics. The Savage Axis has one of the worst triggers available in a modern rifle. Good enough for me, I thought, so I put the 40x back in. This must not be a widespread problem, or maybe guys just want a light trigger and don't care about creep. I think you guys are either missing my point or I didn't ask it correctly. JavaScript is disabled. effec t of a new trigger on a 1911 trigger job. I started with the sear. There seemed to be no amount of sear engagement that would prevent the slam fires. The engagement angles were obviously cut to give a lower pull weight. Now, since I needed a reliable/safe trigger for the field with a good pull weight, etc., I would either have to re-install my 40x, or get to work cutting new engagement angles for the sear and trigger. If it was my gun, before performing exorcism and using up all of the holy water I have on hand I would buy a Timney. I dont have a wife to scold me so I have free reign. Thread Tools: Show Printable Version. Let me just say that "messing" with the trigger on a buddy's gun is a bad thing, unless you REALLY know what your doing, and how to SAFELY aquire a good trigger pull. Later, I got the hair brained Idea to start again on the Shilen trigger. There was no creep/over travel. It wasn't pretty, but It worked. Display Modes: Come join the discussion about optics, hunting, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more! Definitely sound advise! What AFMan said.Creep is actually the alot of sear engagement.The more surface the sear has to slide out from under the hammer hook,the more creep.Rough surfaces like a trigger track that doesn't let the trigger bow glide are sometimes included in the definition,but really aren't.They pretty much just screw up the pull weight with inconsistancy.I prefer .020 hooks and about 50% … It does not need to be a two-stage trigger to have creep, the term only refers to the movement that should make the trigger “break”, but does not, because of excessive sear engagement. JavaScript is disabled. Make sure you don't have any burrs or edges on the disconnector paddles. Your first instinct - "I do not know my way around bolt actions well enough to know how to remove this creep." The only disappointing thing about how this came out is that the pull weight varies +/- 1.5 oz., just like my 40x did. Lightening the trigger pull, the only information I've been able to find, made the creep worse. Not a statement against the additional safety....my current stable is all Series 80 pistols. I have an "older" Colt XSE Commander that I love except for the trigger pull. If you fixed it, then that is good. I was ready to give up on the Shilen, but before I did, I took everything apart, and checked engagement angles for the trigger and sear. I had to increase to 2 1/4 lbs before the slam fires stopped. I noted the pull weight was 1 3/4 lbs. There was simply no other combination of adjustments that would either lower the pull weight, or reduce the creep, without the slam fires resurfacing. If this is something I can't do without going that far, we will look elsewhere for a fix (Nowlin or C&S trigger kit maybe). It reduces creep not only because it is smooth but because it doesn't push the striker back as much when you pull the trigger. It just so happened to fit perfectly, and I didn't need to adjust anything on the 40x. I went ahead and installed the Shilen, and checked pull weight and creep. There are plenty of aftermarket triggers on the market. But there remains a certain amount of creep. It's terrible. Now all the adjustments went much easier. I just picked up a Ruger American .22 the other day. How "long" are the full cock hammer hooks? Second Media Corp., 111 Peter Street, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. Email this Page. I recently purchased a Shilen trigger to replace my Rem 700P 40xLE trigger. With the naked eye, it was apparent that the sear/trigger do not have 90 degree engagement angles. You aren't looking to remove material just relieve friction. The mil-spec AR trigger is perfectly functional, but out of the box it can be gritty, heavy and have a fair amount of creep. Trigger creep is movement of the trigger rearward AFTER the take up, or slack. Before working on the trigger, I decided to see if the Shilen sear would work with my 40x trigger. Many tr, Super Hero 15 Napkin Rings Paper Digital Download, Adorable Felt Handmade Tsum Tsum Characters - Minnie Mouse (Fridge Magnet). I do not know my way around bolt actions well enough to know how to remove this creep. Since I already had a workable trigger, I wasn't too worried about mucking up the Shilen trigger, so I used a dremmel to do the cutting, taking care not to actually cut the engagement surface. I recently purchased a Shilen trigger to replace my Rem 700P 40xLE trigger. I finished squaring the trigger by hand stoning. I re-assembled the Shilen with all it's original and re-stoned parts. Trigger creep is the trigger's movement before it disengages and the firing pin is released. Creep and the feel of the pull are governed primarily by the hammer and sear engagement surfaces. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I spent some more time searching and actually ran into a couple threads mentioning trigger creep in their American, but still no diagrams or information on how to disassemble the American's trigger group. I started with the adjustments and safety checks.